Tuning the Toyota 4A
"Building the best modified Toyota 4A engine!"
Carref prides itself on providing the latest tips and guides to your modification project.
The Toyota 4A provide a fun base for your project and with carefully picked performance enhancements like remapping, turbo kits and camshafts you will positively maximise your driving opportunities.
In this article we provide a guide to 4A tuning and report on the best modifications for your car.
We rely on our visitors to pass on tips and tell us about their projects and what worked on their car, and this article is the culmination of the feedback we have received. First let us look at the history and specs of this engine and then consider which tuning modifications work best on it.
History of the Engine
North American market engines:
4A-L, 4A-LC & 4A-C
- 4A-LC 1.6 L I4, 8valve SOHC, 52 kW (70 hp; 71 PS) @4800 rpm
- 4A-C 1.6 L I4, 8valve SOHC, 55 kW (74 hp; 75 PS) @5200 rpm
European (and other) market engines: (excepting some EU areas)
- 4A-L 1.6 L, I4, 8valve SOHC, 58 kW (78 hp; 79 PS) @5600 rpm (123Nm 90 lbft) @4000 rpm (Indonesia)
- 4A-L 1.6 L, I4, 8valve SOHC, 62 kW (83 hp; 84 PS) @5600 rpm (130Nm 96 lbft) @3600 rpm (compression @9.3:1) (Europe)
- 4A-LC 1.6 L, I4, 8valve SOHC, 57 kW (77 hp; 78 PS) @5600 rpm
This version of the 4A was fitted to...
- AT151 Carina II 1983–1987 (Europe only)
- AT160 Celica 1985–1989 (excluding Japan)
- AE71 Corolla 1982–1984 (North America, Australia & South Africa only)
- AE82/86 Corolla 1983–1987 (excluding Japan)
- AT151 Corona 1983–1987 (excluding Japan)
- A60 Daihatsu Charmant 1984-1987 (excluding Japan)
4A-ELU
- 78 hp @5600 rpm (118Nm 87 lbft) @4000 rpm
- 100 hp @5600 rpm (127Nm 94 lbft) @4000 rpm JDM
- AT151 Carina 1984–1988 (JDM)
- AE82 Corolla 1983–1987 (JDM)
- AE82 Sprinter 1983–1987 (JDM)
4A-F
- 95 hp @6,000 rpm (127Nm 94 lbft) @3,600 rpm
- AT171 Carina II 1987–1992 (Europe only)
- AE92/95 Corolla 1987–1992 (excluding JDM)
- AE95 Corolla 1988–1989 (JDM)
- AE101 Corolla 1992–1998 (Asia, Africa & Latin-America)
- AE111 Corolla 1997–2001 (Asia, Africa & Latin-America)
- AT171/177 Corona 1987–1992 (excluding JDM)
4A-FE
North American market engines:
- 113 hp @5,800 rpm, (107lbft) @4,800 rpm
European market engines: - 104 hp @6,000 rpm, (105lbft) @3,200 rpm
Asian market engines:
- 114 hp; 116 PS) @6,000 rpm
South African market engines: - 78 hp; @6,000 rpm and torque (103lbft @4,400 rpm
This version of the 4A found it's way into many popular cars and export models
- AT220 Avensis 1997–2000 (excluding JDM
- AT171/175 Carina 1988–1992 (JDM)
- AT190 Carina 1984–1996 (JDM only)
- AT171 Carina II 1987–1992 (Europe only)
- AT190 Carina E 1992–1997 (Europe only)
- AT180 Celica 1989–1993 (excluding JDM)
- AE92/95 Corolla 1988–1997
- AE101/104/109 Corolla 1991–2002
- AE111/114 Corolla 1995–2002
- AE101 Corolla Ceres 1992–1998 (JDM)
- AT175 Corona 1988–1992 (JDM)
- AT190 & AT210 Corona 1992–2001
- AE95 Sprinter 1989–1991 (JDM)
- AE101/104/109 Sprinter 1992–2002 (JDM
- AE111/114 Sprinter 1995–1998 (JDM)
- AE95 Sprinter Carib 1988–1990 (JDM)
- AE111/114 Sprinter Carib 1996–2001 (JDM)
- AE101 Sprinter Marino 1992–1998 (JDM)
- AE92/AE111 Corolla/Conquest 1993–2002 (South Africa)
4A-FHE
- 110hp @6,000 rpm (142Nm 105 lbft) @4,800 rpm
- AT171 Carina 1990–1992 (JDM only)
4A-GE 16v
- 115–128 hp; 117–130 PS @6,600 rpm 109 lbft @5,800 rpm
- AA63 Carina 1983.06–1985 (JDM only)
- AT160 Carina 1985–1988 (JDM only)
- AT171 Carina 1988–1992 (JDM only)
- AA63 Celica 1983–1985
- AT160 Celica 1985–1989
- AE82 Corolla saloon, FX 1984.10–1987
- AE86 Corolla Levin 1983.05–1987
- AE92 Corolla 1987–1993
- AT141 Corona 1983.10–1985 (JDM only)
- AT160 Corona 1985–1988 (JDM only)
- AW11 MR2 1984.06–1989
- AE82 Sprinter 1984.10–1987 (JDM only)
- AE86 Sprinter Trueno 1983.05–1987 (JDM only)
- AE92 Sprinter 1987–1992 (JDM only)
- AE82/AE92 Corolla GLi Twincam/Conquest RSi 1986–1993 (South Africa)
- Chevrolet Nova (based on Corolla AE82)
- Geo Prizm GSi (based on Toyota AE92 chassis) 1990–1992
4A-GE 20v 4th generation
- AE101 Corolla Levin coupe 1991–2000 (JDM only)
- AE101 Sprinter Trueno coupe 1991–2000 (JDM only)
- AE101 Corolla Ceres hardtop 1992–1998 (JDM only)
- AE101 Sprinter Marino hardtop 1992–1998 (JDM only)
- AT210 Carina 1996–2001 (JDM only)
- AE101 Corolla 1991–2002 (JDM only)
- AE101 Sprinter 1991–2000 (JDM only)
4A-GZE
- 143 bhp @6400 rpm 140 lbft @4400 163-180 hp 155 lbft
- AE92 Corolla 1987–1991 (JDM only)
- AE101 Corolla 1991–1995 (JDM only)
- AW11 MR2 1986–1989 (Japan, 1988-1989 North America)
- AE92 Sprinter 1987–1991 (JDM only)
- AE101 Sprinter 1991–1995 (JDM only)
Tuning the Toyota 4A and best 4A performance parts.
What are the most effective 4A modifications
When talking about the best best for your 4A engine, we are going to concentrate on the modifications that give the best value for money.
Altering your 4A camshaft will make a dramatic difference to the engine power band. Choosing a higher performance camshaft profile raises the power band accordingly.
Fast road cams commonly increase the performance across the rev band, you may sacrifice a little low end torque but your top end will improve.
Motorsport cams, increase the top end band but as a result the car will not idle smoothly and low end power nearly always suffers.
A Motorsport cam will just annoy you whilst on the daily commute.
You should ideally optimize your engines power to your preferences so for a car driven daily stick with a shorter duration 4A cam
Each engine responds better to more or less aggressive camshaft durations so view each engine as unique.
The ecu map and fuelling also will say much on the bhp gains you'll get.
Longer valve durations can alter the bhp band and on most engines the exhaust and intake durations do not need to match, although most cams and tuners use matched pairs there are some advantages to extending the intake or exhaust durations.
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How to tune your car
- Improve the handling
Focus on Suspension improvements, such as coilovers and make sure the bushings are in good order and that the alignment is correct. Then focus on improving the brakes, with a big disk brake conversion kit and fast road brake pads.
- Remove restrictions
Focus on the intake and exhaust with filters being the common point of restriction in a tuned car. Intercoolers may also become restrictive on turbo engines so this may also need to be uprated.
- Burn more fuel & air
Increase the fuelling so it matches the air coming into the engine. The ratio is important so you need to improve the fuel pump and injectors, so the head mods, big valve conversions, fast road camshafts and forced induction upgrades extra supply of air is adequately met.
- Test and replace any weak parts
Weak areas are commonly the clutch, the turbocharger and pistons and crankshaft in a highly tuned engine. Makes sure these components will cope with your power aspirations.
- The Tune or Remap
A cars ECU controls the fuel, timing, spark and even the turbo in some cases, so to fully extract your gains you should remap the car last and this will fully release the power. Some cars are easy to map, and others require piggyback ECU's or aftermarket ECU's but this is the most vital step of your tuning project.
Modifying to Stage 1:
Fast road camshaft, Remaps/piggy back ECU, Sports exhaust manifold, Drilled & smoothed airbox, Intake headers, Panel air filters.
Modifying to Stage 2:
Fast road cam, Sports catalyst & performance exhaust, Ported and polished head, high flow fuel injectors, fuel pump upgrades, induction kit.
Modifying to Stage 3:
Adding or Upgrading forced induction (turbo/supercharger), Internal engine upgrades (head flowing porting/bigger valves), Crank and Piston upgrades to alter compression, Competition cam, Engine balancing & blueprinting, Twin charging conversions.
A remap will help unlock the full potential of all the modifications you've done to your 4A.
It will usually give around 30% more power on turbocharged vehicles and you can expect to see around 15% on NASP engines, but your results usually depend much on the modifications you've done and the condition of your engine.
Shoving more fuel and air into your 4A is the main goal to any engine performance tuning task.
Headers carry the air during the suck phase from the filter and allow it to be drawn into the engine and mixed with fuel.
Shape and flow characteristics of the Headers can make a noticeable effect on to fuel delivery on the 4A.
Many mass produced engine plenum chambers are begging for an upgrade, although some car makers provide reasonably good plenum chambers.
Big valve conversions on the 4A, carrying out 4A port enlargement and head flowing will also raise bhp and torque, and significantly will permit a better bhp and torque increase on other tuning mods.
Which turbo upgrades are best?
NASP engines need quite a lot of work when you add a turbo, so we have a separate guide to help you take into account the pros and cons of going this route on your 4A engine block.
It is not unusual that there's a limitation in the air flow sensor MAF/MAP on the 4A when loads more air is being fed into the engine.
You'll see that 4 bar air sensors coping with quite large power gains, whereas the OEM air sensor limited torque at a much lower level.
Adding a supercharger or additional turbo will make large bhp gains, although more difficult to setup. We have this feature on twinchargers if you want to read more.
Fuelling
When you raise the bhp you will need to increase to the fuel delivery.
More bhp needs more fuel. We strongly recommend you to be generous with your injectors flow rate.
As a rule of thumb add another 20% when fitting an injector, this takes into account injector deterioration and gives a little spare capacity should the engine need more fuel.
We think this one is common sense, but you'll need to match your fuel injector to the type of fuel your car uses as well.
All the following flywheel power targets will assume an injector duty cycle of 80% and a base of 58psi of fuel pressure at idle.
4 Cylinder turbocharged engines
- 58 PSI 340cc/min 200hp
- 58 PSI 511cc/min 300hp
4 Cylinder NASP engines
- 58 PSI 285cc/min 200hp
- 58 PSI 426cc/min 300hp
Choosing the right performance exhaust
One of the most common mistakes and problems we see in tuning projects is usually down to the exhaust, or rather a poorly chosen exhaust for your engine.
You should look to replace your exhaust if your current exhaust is creating a flow problem.
On most factory exhausts you'll see the exhaust flow rate is ok even on modest power gains, but when you start pushing up the power levels you will need to get a better flowing exhaust.
Sports exhausts can help equal out the flow of gases through the engine.
But if the exhaust is too large, ie: it's over 2.5 inches bore, you will lose a great deal of the flow rate and end up lacking power and torque.
Usual exhaust restrictions come around the catalysts installed, so adding a faster flowing race alternative will help avoid this restriction.
Weak spots, Issues & problem areas on the 4A
The 4A engines are generally reliable and solid as long as they are regularly serviced and maintained.
Regular oil changes are vital on the 4A, especially when tuned and will help extend the life and reliability of the engine.
For more information on Tuning your 4A engine please join us in our friendly forum where you can discuss tuning options in more detail with our 4A owners. It would also be worth reading our unbiased tuning articles to get a full grasp of the benefits and drawbacks of each modification.
Please help us improve these tips by sending us your feedback in the comments box below.
We love to hear what our visitors have got up to and which tuning parts work best for them on each model of car. Comments are used to improve the accuracy of these 4A articles which are continually updated.
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